Nigella Lawson says restaurants should not play music because it drowns out the taste of the food

I dislike loud music in restaurants too.  I always ask them to turn it down and if they refuse I just leave.  I sometimes ask first are they selling food or music and that sometimes makes a favourable impact

The loud thump of music is now something to be expected in many fashionable restaurants - but Nigella Lawson has said it leaves her unable to taste her food.

The cook and television presenter has said she is "allergic to all noise" including "music in shops and restaurants".

She added: "It is utterly draining. And it drowns out the taste of the food.

"I’ve always presumed that these decisions are made by people who feel uncomfortable without noise."

Chef Richard Corrigan, who has won two Michelin stars and cooked for the Queen, said he sticks to quiet jazz piano music in his Mayfair restaurants.

The restaurateur, who owns Bentley's Oyster Bar and Corrigan's restaurant, said: "Loud music, personally I'm not a fan of it in restaurants, I don't mind some music, some live piano like we have in  Bentley's and Corrigan's is good, but what you don't want is speakers over the table.

"A good playlist is as equal to a really good menu in the right environment. It shows soul and individuality. You need to stay away from restaurants that play Abba or Eric Clapton loudly."

He added that while those in their twenties may enjoy loud music as they eat their meal, getting older means that the noise is grating.

Mr Corrigan said: "Getting old is a great, great thing, but as we get old, noise to your eardrums of any description has a detrimental effect.

"It is more about age more than anything, as you get older you look for a bit more solitude.

"When Nigella was in her twenties, she probably did love music in a restaurant".

Paul Askew, Chef Patron of The Art School in Liverpool, said that "great food needs to be tasted in a softer, more gentle environment", adding that in his restaurant he tries to "create an oasis of calm and a sanctuary of restoration for the soul."

Oisin Rogers, who runs The Guinea Grill in Mayfair, said bad music can ruin one's appetite. He explained: "Music. Everybody loves it. It provides instant atmosphere. But if there's already a good vibe there's no need for it. Restaurants provide sensory experiences. Good sights, delicious tastes and flavours, beautiful aromas, textures that intrigue and pleasant sounds.

"Some get music really right...many don't. Canned music is often an irritant, an annoyance. It might please some folk, but never all. And if it is irritating, Nigella is perfectly correct, it's impossible to enjoy food while irritated."

However, some restaurateurs said music is a crucial aspect of eating out. Two Michelin-starred chef Sat Bains said: "I think it’s important to have music in restaurants, it creates atmosphere and is necessary at the beginning of a service when the room is slightly quieter. Obviously, it shouldn’t be booming but nice and subtle. The best type of music for me is guests chattering and having a good time."

Jason Atherton of The Social Company added: "Music is really important to me, I actually highlighted this to my restaurant teams this morning; you can be sat in the most amazing restaurant, tasting the most beautiful food but if there’s no music and the atmosphere is flat, the overall experience is ruined.

"I agree music shouldn’t be overbearingly loud and it has to suit the restaurant’s ambience, but it’s such an important factor in the guest’s experience to get right."

Tom Brown of Cornerstone in Hackney Wick agreed, explaining: "I think having good music playing is essential. At Cornerstone, it’s the thing that people comment on the most, after the food. When you go out it should be fun. You obviously want to be able to have a conversation and there’s nothing worse than sitting in a silent dining room."

Action on Hearing Loss recently found that some restaurants play music up to 90 decibels on busy nights, while recommendations from the charity suggest establishments keep it below 50db.


https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2019/06/05/nigella-lawson-says-restaurants-should-not-play-music-drowns/?WT.mc_id=e_DM1026490&WT.tsrc=email&etype=Edi_FPM_New_ES&utm_source=email&utm_medium=Edi_FPM_New_ES_2019_06_05&utm_campaign=DM1026490